Over 25 years ago, we first visited the Eastern Townships in Quebec. We were looking for a new manure spreader. We knew that there were some leading edge manufacturers in that area and we made appointments to meet with them. We've been back there many times since. Each time we return, we are reminded of that there is something very special about this part of Canada.
When you are traveling with two Louise Penny fans, a trip to Knowlton, her home town, is in order. Ted and I had never been to Knowlton. I am only going to include this one picture from that day's visit. It was Ted's favourite part of the trip - standing on that beautiful bridge and watching a dam-building project, surrounded by these stunning flowers.
Every time we visit this area, we find out new levels of caring and community. These two gentlemen are Grandes Fourches Patrouilleur Ambassadors. There are 96 km of bike paths in Sherbrooke. Between May and November, these volunteers "roam the network every day to welcome, inform and ensure the safety of cyclists. They are equipped with a cell phone and tools for mechanical assistance. They also received first aid training (CPR)."
They were waiting for around 30 cyclists who they were going to take on a tour. Throughout the day, we encountered 3 more groups of cyclists, two of which were high school and elementary aged students out on a jaunt with their teachers.
Downtown Sherbrooke is a biker's heaven.
I should probably say that it is heaven for humans. Wouldn't it be wonderful to step out of your apartment or house and walk by these living paintings every day?
Just look over the lake and there is your home.
Maybe exercising is your thing. We have rarely seen so many fit people in one city.
Our travel buddies had never been to this part of Quebec. We were worried that maybe they would not like it as well as we do. Looks like they are enjoying themselves below, doesn't it?
These sculptures have been in this spot for quite a few years. Not a bit of damage or graffiti. No litter anywhere.
There are two man-made lakes in the downtown core of Sherbrooke. The bike/walking paths go around both lakes. On the trail, near the downtown there is a market, Marché de la Gare. It is in the old train station. There are a few permanent - and wonderful - vendors inside the old train station. You could take a taste trip around Quebec without leaving Sherbrooke. Just buy a bit of each of these cheeses. Perfect spot for lunch!
And, if you've never tasted sugar pie........
Is your mouth watering?
I think we biked something like 26 km that day.
Yesterday, my favourite market ever was our destination: the North Hatley Farmers' Market. We often time this holiday so that we can be near North Hatley on a Saturday morning between 10 and 12. Two hours of culinary, musical and artistic wonder.
As soon as you step on the market grounds, every sense is greeted. Our friends noticed the distinct scent of basil. Flowers (above) are always at the entrance. And, for your ears: wonderful French-Canadian music. Lilting music. We felt like dancing through the aisles.
Our sponsors today. No idea who they are, but their music made our day.
We last visited North Hatley market in 2019. A few vendors have changed, but not this one. Libby Mill Alpacas. Aren't those the cutest fluffy toys ever?
It's one thing to be away for 10 days on a holiday. It's totally another to be able to take home tasty memories to prolong the holiday. Some of these samosas made their way into our cooler for lunch. Yum.
Ruth and Dave split an almond croissant.
After the market, our travel buddies were confident enough to venture out on their own. They explored another Louise Penny-inspired destination: Sutton.
Ted and I wanted to take the road less traveled and followed our noses in the countryside east of North Hatley. Not destination in mind except for one: Fromagerie La Station. The land in this area is variable. Look at this soybean field. Perfect.
Dairy farms dotted every hill in the distance. And, the grass looked like it was springtime.
Fromagerie La Station is not on a main road. You travel over hill and dale to get there. Imagine our surprise when we crested the last hill and saw hundreds and hundreds of people milling about the grounds and someone with a flag, directing traffic. After we found a parking spot, we asked an approachable gentleman what was happening? The Relais Desjardins du Lac Memphrémagog. A relay race. One runner, one biker and they switch throughout the race.
1,200 racers
103 km
first racers starting at 6 a.m.
last racers returning at 9 p.m.
And...... he's off!
The cheese store was as wonderful as ever. I imagine that every one of those 1200 racers bought a sample of La Station's cheese. We've been watching the progress of this business for many years. Their milk flows directly from their barns to their factory. They started out small, but with very good cheese. Now they use robots in their curing rooms. They've expanded their barns, their factory and their hay storage in the past few years.
They must be doing something right. What warmed my heart was how happy their cows looked. 85 cows pastured in a meadow.
So, you take a few right turns and a few left turns, go over a few hills and you stumble across Les Vallons Maraîchers. Translation: the market gardening valleys. How accurate. Hundreds of acres of vegetables, much on land you wouldn't expect to see vegetables planted. Dozens of types of vegetables including these leeks. They even ship their veggies into the US.
On our way back to Sherbrooke, I noticed a small sign for the Johnville Bog & Forest Park. Not being ones to ever pass by a bog without exploring it. we soon found out why the parking lot was FULL! It is BEAUTIFUL!!!!
All along the very well-constructed boardwalks were placards with information about why conserving bogs is such a good idea.
Here is what I read:
Did you know that conserving peatlands helps limit greenhouse gas emissions? In fact, they store a significant amount of carbon in the peat, which accumulates several metres deep. The carbon thus settled no longer circulates in the atmosphere in the form of CO2, one of the main gases responsible for the greenhouse effect.
Although they cover only 3% to 5% of the earth's landmass, peatlands constitute one of the most important land reserves of carbon. They hold 500 billion tonnes, ⅓ of all of the carbon contained in the planet's soil.
And, this is what I saw. Isn't sphagnum moss beautiful???
All those mosses working away to save our planet home.
And, being beautiful at the same time.
Last night, as we talked about our trip, I wondered if our travel buddies would rise to the challenge of being interviewed? I wondered how their impression of Quebec and the Eastern Townships may have changed in the 10 days we were there.
1. What were your expectations or preconceptions when visiting this part of Quebec?
D. That we would be frowned upon as English speaking Ontario people.
R. My response is much the same as Dave’s. Preconceptions were that I would be faced with rudeness because I only spoke English. That the people wouldn’t be helpful.
2. How have your experiences differed from your expectations?
D. The welcoming and friendliness of people whether it be store clerks, camping neighbours or wait staff.
R. My experience was the total opposite. We were received warmly and communication was not an issue between their English and my little bit of French, we got our message across. This made me want to try harder to speak French.
3. Tell me about your most memorable person, place and thing on this trip.
D. Camping on the St Lawrence River watching the River flow by. The cart driver at I’ll St Marie. He had no English but that didn’t stop to have a chat. The beautiful gardens, beautiful houses and lack of litter.
R. My favourite place was on the St Lawrence. I am drawn to water and even had an opportunity to swim, which made it even more special. My favourite person is the same as Dave - the cart driver at I’ll St Marie. He had a smile that could light up the world. Another favourite experience was biking into Sherbrooke and around the lakes. I was very impressed by French society - the way they keep there environment clean and the creativity present in their parks and gardens
Heavy rain was in the forecast for Monday, so we drove home today. Just over 2,000 km total driving distance.
I will let the windshield indicate how I feel about leaving the Eastern Townships.
“I may not have gone where I intended to go,
but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.”
douglas adams
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